5/21 Islay.Scotland

I'm combining photos from two days because it makes logical sense to present them this way.  I was in Islay about 10 years ago for 24 hours, but it was cold and pouring down rain the entire time, so I did not get much chance to explore.  I was hoping for better weather this time, and the best I can say is that it was "mostly" cold and drizzling with just a peek of sun this last day.  Anyway, before I post photos, here are some important things you need to know about this island in the Lower Hebrides, off the west coast of Scotland.  First, here is a map of this "fat horseshoe" island:

 

Click here for a more detailed, interactive map.  

Here are some basic facts about Islay:

• First, it is pronounced "eye-la."
• The island consists of 250 square miles and has about 3,500 permanent residents.  Back in the early 1800s, there were as many as 12,000 people living here working tiny "crofts" and being very poor.  They were forced to leave in the mid-1800s when land owners realized they could make more money from raising sheep than having crofters farm the land in tiny plots. 
• Islay's climate is moderate and wet because it is in the path of the Gulf Stream.  No snow, but little sun most of the year either.  
• Islay is at the 55th parallel, so even this time of year, the sun rises shortly after 5:00 am and sets close to 10:00 pm.  This means they have a lot of sunlight in summer, but a lot of dark in winter.
• It is common here not to lock the door of your home because there is virtually no crime.  Even if there were, it is pretty easy to catch criminals on an island. 
• There are only three tiny Co-op grocery stores, and most of us would find more selection in convenience stores, so residents have to stock up on the mainland. 
• There are no predators on the island--no wolves, foxes, raccoons, or even squirrels.  
• There are a LOT of sheep here and some cattle, but little farming occurs. 
• There is a lot of tourism on the island because of eight whiskey distilleries and being on the highly-promoted "Whiskey Trail" in Scotland.  Biggest industries on the island are tourism, sheep and cattle, distilleries, and fishing.
• My great-great-grandmother was born here in 1833, but we cannot find any record of her birth because many were not recorded.  My next step, when I have time, is to check baptismal records, although an island genealogist has told me many of those got lost when churches were closed. 

Now, for some photos.  This is Bowmore, the biggest town on the island and centrally located.  The church in the distance is round because someone believed that the devil could hide in corners, so no corners in this church!  Notice that there are few parking spaces available.  Each time I go here, I have to drive in circles for a while to get a spot.

Bowmore Harbor.

Note that cars in the UK are not required to park in the same direction as the flow of traffic.  So, if you see a good spot on the other side of the road, you just cut through traffic and park however you want. 

Bowmore traffic jam.  I had to squeeze over while two motorhomes and a line of cars got through past me. I am guessing they are all from the ferry arriving at the other end of the island at Port Askraig.  You can see the line down the supposed middle of the road, but cars are always parked on the left because there are two popular restaurants there.  My vehicle was straddling the line because of the parked cars.  (Parking laws in the UK, especially in small towns, are not exactly monitored nor are cars ticketed very often.)  What makes this all workable is that drivers are very polite about moving over and letting other vehicles pass.

There was about 4" between me and the motorhomes and less at the back of my small rental vehicle! 

 

This is the drive to Port Ellen, one of other village on the island.  Port Ellen has a port, obviously, but is where the ferries dock at least once per day.  Apparently this land is not even good for sheep because there were almost no animals along this road. 

Made it to Port Ellen where ferry is just leaving.

Three of several churches in this small village. 

This photo was taken on the other side of the big bay in Port Charlotte where there is the island's historical museum in an old church.  Love this stone wall!!

Exhibits ranged from Mesolithic to last century. 

This is a depiction of a bronze age dwelling. 

 Road back to my hotel.  I like the lack of traffic, but not the rain.

Looking from my B&B window to Bowmore.

It is certainly a beautiful, wild, and unique place.